Camera positions that work
| Position | Shows | Used for |
|---|---|---|
| Straight on, across the street | The full front, proportions, entry | Listings, signage, design review |
| Corner, 45 degrees | Two facades and the depth of the building | Hero images, brochures |
| Approach, walking or driving in | Arrival sequence, landscaping, parking | Commercial and multifamily marketing |
| Close-up of the entry | Materials, porch or storefront detail | Material approvals, sales boards |
Eye level matters
We place street cameras at about the height of a standing adult unless you ask otherwise. Raising the camera makes a building look smaller and tidier, which can mislead a review board or a buyer. If you want a higher view for clarity, we'll label it as an aerial or elevated view.
The street around it
A street view without neighbors looks fake and hides scale. We model adjacent buildings as simple shapes from your photos, add the sidewalk, curb, street trees and parked cars where they belong, and keep them muted so the project stays the subject.
Day, dusk and season
Daytime views read best for review and listings. Dusk views with lit windows suit brochures and storefronts. We set the sun from the site's orientation, so shadows fall where they really would. Mark north on your site plan.
Questions
Can you match the real street from photos?
Yes, closely. Photos taken from the camera spot let us line up the view, the horizon and the neighbors. Without them we build the context from the site plan and map views.
Do you add people and cars?
A few, if you want them, kept at a natural scale. Some review boards prefer empty streets; tell us in the brief.
Know which views you need? Mark the camera spots on a site plan, or describe them, and send your drawings.
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